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Thread: Fluval Edge 6 Gallon

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    Fluval Edge 6 Gallon

    I just picked up a project yesterday, a Fluval Edge 15395 6 gallon. It's a nice little tank but needing a bit of work. The lamp sockets are badly corroded so I'll be ripping the lamp apart to replace the sockets (a replacement LED upgrade kit from Hagen is something like $80... No thanks). I'll take plenty of pics of the process, I can see this being a problem for a lot of tanks. It's also missing the top trim, but that it only something like $20 so I don't mind buying that to make it complete. The tank comes with a Fluval branded "Edge" filter, looks like a rebranded AC20 to me given that it is the same parent company. I don't know for sure what my plans are with it in the long run, it looks cool but the design is very impractical for cleaning, so it may be perfect for a shrimp/snail tank, which I already have though...

    The sad part of this deal was that it has a redbellied piranha in it, alone and way too small of a tank. My plan for the fish right now is to monitor it for health before finding an appropriate home with an EXPERIENCED keeper, I think a fish like this shouldn't go to just any tank. It seems very shy which is normal since it's alone and probably stressed, and has a malformed eye on one side which has aparently been like that since the fish was tiny. I'll keep an eye on it and will post it up when I'm satisfied it has no major health issues.

    Pics will come later and probably a lot at a time, my laptop is broken and I can only run it a few minutes without overheating as I await sending it back for warranty work...

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    I had a fluval edge 6 that was given to me once. Not fun to clean.

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    It does look like a challenge for sure, I'm wondering if an army of feeder snails and cherry shrimp could keep it clean though, the shape would make getting the snails out hard though. After I do the repairs and get the missing parts I'll decide what it's fate will be. I think that with Java moss, marimo balls and a few java fern offshoots the algae would be under control. I like the look of it but transfering my snails and shrimp to there would be a step down given that they are in a 10G now.

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    I would suggest light stocking. Shrimp would work. Or some smaller fish . Snails would likely over populate the tank.

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    I don't think snail population would be a problem though, as they are going to be a food source for my assassins.

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    I would just go with a few zebra snails and skip the assassins and pest snails myself.

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    The assassins are in my community tank, they wouldn't be in this little tank. The reason I'm considering the swap from my current 10 gallon shrimp/snail setup is that while it is 4 gallons smaller, the footprint is similar, mostly just less deep but aesthetically is unlike my other tanks.

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    Why not both haha

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    I won't lie, I've thought about it but I need to free up some funds to replace by 29g that I believe is on borrowed time.

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    I'm in a similar issue. Trying to figure out what to do with a few tanks. If I can/should set up a few more. Or if I should sell them off.

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    So here the lamp is, corroded and the ceramic starting to fail
    Click here to enlarge

    I unscrewed one connector and cut off the wiring to it, then brought it to Home Depot to see what I could find
    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

    This is very slow to do with my phone so more will come later.

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    Click here to enlarge
    So to give enough clearance to work there are 4 screws on the lamp other than the 4 holding in the lamp sockets. 2 are near the hinge, 2 are about half way down.
    Here is the socket that I brought to Home Depot with me, and looky what I found there
    Click here to enlarge
    I started by threading the wires through the holes in the lamp.
    Click here to enlarge
    Wired up, but note that this was a fitment test, the wires got trimmed to about 5 inches so that they could fit inside the lamp. Also, my choice to use twist connectors was based on the idea that this will need to be done again a few years in the future so I didn't want to keep cutting wires.
    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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    Sockets screwed into place and the remaining 4 screws from the lamp are screwed in as well
    Click here to enlarge

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    Should have tested the transformer first, bought some bulbs and it's no-go. I'm going to have to find my multimeter to find the point of failure, the wiring seemed a bit oxidized but I felt it was still good enough to work, I may have to trim several inches off from the end of the wires to get back to clean copper. More to come on this.

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    Sounds like you are having fun.

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    I like tinkering, I'm not so fond of chasing electron leaks but I'm an aircraft tech so it's definitely not outside the scope of what I do at work, just a different source of power. In the summer I fix lawn mowers for several months straight, I can buy, fix and sell sometimes over 30 in a month, what I lack is something to keep me busy in the winter. 2 years ago my winter project was troubleshooting and repairing a plasma TV that I got for free, it's my main TV now lol.

    I just spent my supper break looking up Fluval Edge issues, and the switch itself looks like a common problem, so I'm going to verify 12V at the leads and if I get that, I'm going to jumper the wires in place of the switch. If that's a go I'll look for a cheap switch that will work in it's place, or hardwire them and install it on a digital timer.

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    OK, so I read 12V across the wires after the switch, so the transformer and switch are good. What I'm not getting is 12v across the lamp socket when power is applied. I should have check for continuity through the socket. That'll be a morning job. I also couldn't get the bulb to light with it directly contacting the wires. What are the chances that both lights in a pack are duds? Maybe I'll pick up another elsewhere tomorrow to rule that out.

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    Laying in bed I think I figured it out, too tired to investigate though. There is significant corrosion inside the wire insulation, so I think what is happening is that with zero load I get 12V, but unable to provide significant current it produces the voltage drop that I'm measuring when load is applied. To test this I'll have to sacrifice a good length of the wiring to where it's corrosion free, bypass the switch and wire the socket directly. I WILL solve this! But now, bed.

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    I cut 6 inches off of the wiring to get to shiny metal, directly wired a lamp and success! So then I hooked the newly found shiny wires to the switch and again, man made light. Switched it off and... light. So the switch is shorted as well. So far the lamp has had corroded and broken sockets, corroded wiring and a shorted swutch. Off to Princess Auto for a switch.

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    Here we go, lit by direct wiring.
    Click here to enlarge
    Looky what I found at Jentronics in Burnside
    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
    Close match I'd say

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